We Shoot Photography Of The Day For 5/8/2015
Friday, May 8th, 2015
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Friday, April 12th, 2019
From my sixth year – when my folks gave me my first camera for Christmas – up until today, I have taken many pictures, but the first image I vividly remember taking is of a sunset. At 16, with my newly-acquired driver’s license, I was driving the five-mile trip from home to town. And there it was. The sunset. Wow! With my mouth still agape, I pulled over to the shoulder and grabbed my ever-present camera, lining it up for that perfect picture. The moment was magical, and it determined my career.
Did your love of photography begin with such an occurrence? Did it determine your career choice? If not, do you utilize your camera because you just love taking pictures? Or do you use it for your – or your employer’s – business? If so, are you creating images that positively impact the company?
If the pictures you take – either as a business owner or for your employer – are not providing the results needed to positively impact business growth, consider hiring a professional. At We Shoot, you get two professional photographers, one who honed his trade in his 20s, and one who – at 16-years of age – without a doubt knew this was the path to be taken.
There are three ways to acquire photography:
1. Shoot your facility, equipment, product, and work activity yourself;
2. Buy or rent images from a stock agency; or
3. Hire a professional.
If you want images which have a positive impact on your business and couple effectively with your marketing strategy, I believe the choice is clear. Hire a professional.
What’s your choice? What works best for your needs? And why?
– Dione Benson
Tags: camera, Career, Career Path, Choice Needs, Christmas, gift, Hiring, image, Impact Business, photographer, photography, picture, pro, product, professional, sunset
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Friday, May 8th, 2015
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Tags: automobile, black and white, bug, bugs, car, dead insects, front, front end, grille, headlight, headlights, image, insects, photograph, photography, Prowler
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Thursday, May 7th, 2015
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Tags: black and white, boat, dock, Grayland, image, photograph, photography, shed, WA, Washington, water
Posted in Information, Photographs, Images | Comments Off on Our photograph of the day for 5/7/2015
Thursday, May 29th, 2014
Professional photographers and amateurs alike have many things in common in this digital age: our cameras put the images we take on digital media, such as Compact Flash cards, SD cards, or similar devices. Some of the different methods for extracting the information from these cards are to run a cable (usually USB) to the camera from the computer and we instruct the computer to copy, transfer, or import the images to the computer’s hard drive(s), or we take the digital media card out of the camera and place it in a reader that serves the same function. Some of us have built-in slots in our desktop computers that will accommodate various kinds of cards. My last two computers have had the slots built in.
I’m a professional photographer and videographer. For many shoots, I go on location and have several Compact Flash cards that fit in my still cameras, and the images I shoot are stored on the CF cards awaiting transfer to my computer’s multiple hard drives. Since I usually can’t reshoot the images, and there is much more security in the redundancy of having the files on different drives, I store my images on several external drives simultaneously. Hard drives do fail. There is no excuse for losing a client’s images.
The critical point, however, is that much can happen to the information on the cards during the transfer process. Pulling a card out of a camera that is turned on can corrupt the card, as can pulling a card out of a reader during a copy phase. So, I breathe easier once the images have been copied or imported to my first hard drive without a hitch. Until I have the images on more than one hard drive, however, I keep the images on the card, as well, for backup in case something bad happens.
I recently got a wakeup call, and it was just by chance. I had been using the CF card slot in my PC to copy files from the card to the computer. I didn’t have a job for a little while and I had left the images from the last shoot on the card in the camera after first copying them to several drives on my computer. I put the card back in my camera after copying it. I usually copy to my main drive first, add keywords, my copyright, etc. to the meta data, and then copy all that to a couple more external drives for security.
About a week after I had copied the images on the card I had put back into the camera, I went to reset the camera’s settings for the most likely settings for my next shoot. It showed I still had images on the card, so I hit the view button to see which images were on the card before deleting them, AND, HORRORS, THEY LOOKED BADLY PIXELATED! I looked at several of the images in the camera and most had this problem. I hit the magnify button, and they looked sharp again, but when going back to the “fit on screen” image they again looked pixelated. All I had done was to copy them to the hard drive on my computer. The images that had been copied to the hard drive were in no way affected, but the card seemed to be corrupted. That never happened before.
Luckily, I had already uploaded the finished job to the client the day before, so I knew that the images in the computer were not corrupted.
As a pro, I can’t leave anything to chance, so I had to find out whether the card was bad, the camera had a problem, or what had screwed up the images while the card was in the computer.
My first test was to shoot test images to see what was happening. Once shot, I looked at each at the back of the camera. They looked normal. I turned off the camera, popped the card, and put it in the built-in PC reader. I copied the files to a folder on my desktop, and made sure it was finished copying. I removed the card from the PC. I made a second folder on my desktop. I then used Photoshop to view the images in the first folder on my desktop. They looked OK. I put the card back in the camera and turned the viewer on, and they were corrupted! I took the card out of the camera again, and put it back in the PC and copied the same files to the second folder on my desktop. I clicked on the first image in Photoshop and a dialog box popped up saying that Photoshop could not read the image format. The card was corrupted. Period.
I had an old external USB 2.0 card reader I used to use before having built-in slots, so I dusted it off and plugged it into an open USB slot on my computer. I put the card in the camera again and formatted the card. Again I took some test images. I took the card out of the camera and put it in the external reader. It took longer than the built-in reader, but there weren’t that many images. They copied perfectly. I took the card from the reader and put it back in the camera. I turned on the viewer, and the pictures looked normal, not corrupted. I shut off the camera and again removed the card. I again copied the files to another folder on my desktop – they could be opened in Photoshop and looked normal.
I determined that the built-in reader in the PC was corrupting the images while copying. I don’t know why: was it software, or hardware? I determined that the best way around the problem was to not use the built-in slots again on this computer, but to bypass them. I had lost faith in them. However, the USB 2.0 external reader is incredibly slow. I also use my readers for HD video on SDHC cards, and it takes forever to import video files. So, I decided to buy a new USB 3.0 external reader. I found one on B&H’s website for $14.95 (with no shipping) at http://bhpho.to/SVr845 . I ordered it and tried it out with all my different media from different cameras. It seems to work well, and it is blazing fast compared with USB 2.0.
The moral of the story is: Don’t be complacent about your digital photography equipment. Don’t assume all is well without checking it out occasionally. I could have gotten a bad surprise if I hadn’t looked at my camera, and taken action. Being a pro, you’ve got to be on your toes!
– Gary Silverstein
Tags: 2.0, 3.0, camera, card, CF, CF card, commercial photography, Compact Flash, corrupt, corrupting, corruption, drive, file, files, hard drive, image, memory card, PC, pixel, pixelated, professional, reader, SD, SDHC, still, stills, USB, video
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Wednesday, February 20th, 2013
If you have a wifi only iPad you may think you are protected by the Apple “Find My iPad” utility, but you are not. If you lose it, or it is stolen, how will it be recovered? Remember, for the Find My iPad app to work, the iPad has to be signed into the Internet. If you don’t set a password or passcode, it is possible for a thief to go into the settings and shut off Find My iPad. If you do set a password or passcode, it is only possible for the iPad to go online if it is in a place where it has signed into the Internet before, without asking if it should. Otherwise, it remains offline, and Find My iPad can’t find it.
This means that should the police or someone else recover your iPad, they can’t find out how to contact you to say they have it, because they, too, are locked out.
This is how Photoshop or another photo editing tool can help. The iPad allows you to put an image on the lockout screen, other than the one it comes with.
Go into Photoshop and open a new document in the size of the resolution of your screen. In the case of the iPad 4 it is 2048 pixels X 1536 pixels @ 264 pixels per inch. Then add whatever colors you want or add an image as a layer. Next, find the center and use the text tool using the center-justified tool, and put in some text that identifies this iPad as yours. See the example below.
Make something that works for you, and then flatten the image. Save it as a jpeg. I used a quality of 7.
Upload it as an image through iCloud using your Photostream. Go on your iPad and open Photostream. Tap the image and when it gets smaller, tap “edit,” tap the image again so there is a checkmark on the thumbnail, tap “Save to Camera Roll.” Go into the Camera Roll, tap “edit,” tap the thumbnail, tap “share,” and then tap “use as wallpaper.” Now choose “Set Lock Screen.” Turn off your display. Reopen. Your new wallpaper should show the image you just put on your iPad.
Of course, you can do this with your 3G or 4G iPhones and iPads as well.
This way, if some thief steals your iPad and can’t break the passcode or password, anyone he or she shows it to knows it has been stolen. If it is lost, someone who finds it will be able to get in touch with you, or if the police have it, they will be able to contact you.
While not perfect, it should help you hold onto your iPad or maybe get it back.
– Gary Silverstein
We Shoot
We Shoot is a commercial product, food, industrial, and architectural photography team based in the Seattle area.
Tags: apple, apple picking, image, iPad, iPhone, lock screen, lost, Photoshop, police, property, recover, recovery, stolen
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2013
In my last post, I discussed bracketing of exposures. Today, let’s talk about bracketing with hot lights. Hot lights are a continuous lighting source and should be regarded as available light, just sometimes very intense, and very bright. A majority of hot lights are of incandescent color temperature, adding a warm or yellow tone to your image. In most modern DSLRs, there is a setting for tungsten or incandescent light which compensates for the warm tint by adding a blue or cyan tint to the image.
Instead of using the incandescent mode in the camera for white balance, I prefer taking one exposure with a gray card in the image and setting the gray reading for all the images I take in that series with my editing software. Outdoors, my cameras are very accurate, so the automatic white balance setting works just fine. Indoors with a mix of lighting, a gray card or an Expodisk is the ticket.
Now, back to bracketing with available light and hot lights. My cameras will do up to nine bracketed shots (different exposures of the same image) automatically. Some cameras only allow three images for auto bracketing. If you desire more exposures for either HDR (High Dynamic Range) images or for layering the images with these cameras, the way to facilitate that is to do it manually. As in my last article, adjust the exposure by putting the camera in aperture-priority mode, setting one aperture and changing the shutter speed to bracket various exposures. My choice is to use 2/3 of a stop difference for each of my brackets. You may like 1/3 stop, 1/2 stop, 1 stop, or ? bracketing stops instead. If doing this manually, try to get one optimum exposure, i.e. the one picked by the camera as the overall best exposure, and make the same number of exposures brighter and darker on either side of the optimum exposure. Also, if doing it manually, you will have to put the camera on full manual for exposure, then set your aperture where you want and vary the time for the brackets.
The reason for bracketing is that the latitude for digital images is about 5 stops with detail and no digital “noise.” When lightening darker areas in a digital image, one sometimes runs into noise, either color noise which looks likes flecks of red, green, and/or yellow in that area, or luma noise, which looks like flecks of black snow. Noise is usually unacceptable in commercial work and for stock images. The answer is to bracket and take images in which even shadow areas are light enough to have detail without the need to lighten them, and to blend them into the finished image, either with HDR or layering and masking in computer-editing software. Conversely, blown-out areas of one image can be recovered from a darker bracketed image, and give detail to blown-out areas.
In summary, bracketing with available lighting or with hot lights is basically the same, and white balance should be checked and adjusted should the need arise.
-Gary Silverstein
Tags: bracket, bracketing, brackets, commercial photography, editing, exposure, exposures, hdr, hot lights, image, layer, layering, lights, photography, Photoshop, professional, software, We Shoot Photography, weshoot.com
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Thursday, September 9th, 2010
A file saved on a computer isn’t a secure file, unless it exists in at least two different places. If it exists on two different hard drives, or a hard drive and a DVD- or CD-Rom or more drives or disks, then it has a greater chance of being secure.
Years ago, I would copy my image files from the camera’s memory card to my C: drive and work on them and save them back to the C: drive and when completed to a CD-Rom disk. I had a CD go bad on me once, with the only copies of some files for our then main client on that CD. I panicked. Even though that job was “finished,” if the client called and wanted others on that disk or said they lost the original disk, I would have to say I lost the data. I contacted many people, and no one could repair the disk. The drive would not recognize the disk. I finally located a company in the Bay Area who recovered the files on the disk and burnt them on another.
I made sure all media was good from that point on by checking every image on the disk and making sure all of them would open. I would also keep copies on my hard drive as long as I could. At some point, the CD and DVD+ RW had come out, and, although expensive, I was able to keep the data a little safer with more copies.
Hard drives started getting less expensive, and I bought an external 500-gigabyte USB 2.0 hard drive as a back-up drive. I was still copying the files to DVD-ROMs when the job was finished, clearing the space on the main C: drive in my computer, but leaving it on the external back-up drive. I at least had two copies of my files to make them more secure. One day, I went to access a file on that back-up drive, and the screen went black. The back-up drive ground to a halt. It never restarted. I didn’t lose any files as they were still on my main drive and on disk media. I replaced the 500GB drive with another brand and it was 750GB.
About a year later, I decided USB 2.0 hard drives were relatively cheap, and it cost about the same as several hundred DVD-Rom blanks, so why not back up onto two external drives, and, when full, inventory them, disconnect them from the computer, and store them until images on them are needed. Since I am mirroring the data on two external drives, and since one is full prior to the other, as long as I have an inventory, I can find any files I am searching for. I no longer have to waste time burning DVDs and proofing every image on them as I already have done that on the hard drives.
My current setup is an ultrafast PC with two internal eSATA one terabyte drives, in non-raid configuration. All images are first saved to only one of the internal drives. One drive has all the programs and my document libraries on it with lots of room to add more. The other internal drive has mostly images on it. Once I work on an image on the internal drive, at the end of the session, I copy it to each of the external USB 2.0 drives. This give me 3 copies of each file, guarding against loss. The USB 2.0 drives are a bit slow for the huge amount of data that pours from the eSATA drive in the computer. Once I start the copying, I can go and have a cup of coffee and when I return, the copying is usually done. I just retired the 3/4 terabyte (750GB) drive as it had less than 10% free space left. I don’t think it is a good idea to fill a drive completely, as drives need some free space to efficiently move the data around when reading and writing. Since USB 3.0 is now available, I purchased a new one-terabyte drive, and also upgraded to a USB 3.0 host adapter card with two external ports and a bridge inside to allow upgrading to two faster eSATA drives in the future. I could have purchased a two- or three-terabyte drive instead, but I think one terabyte is inherently safer. Drives run all the time and will wear out at some point, maybe before filling up. I think one terabyte will probably be full before it will fail and will be a good storage medium since it will only be called upon to provide an image that is no longer available to the computer from other means. And, in the end, I will still have at least two copies. I am gambling a little more money buying separate smaller drives, but that is the way I deal with it.
One remark I will make is that the USB 3.0 is way faster than the USB 2.0 drive it replaced. And I have cut the amount of work I have to do to back up my files. I will have a little less expense when I replace the other USB 2.0 drive as I don’t h ave to buy a host adapter card for it.
If you have images or other important files you really care about, do yourself a favor. Back those files up on separate media and/or hard drives. You’ ll be glad you did.
For those of you who want a freeware inventory program that I found on the ‘net that seems to work well, go to the contact page on our website at http://weshoot.com, email me, and I will send you the link to the download page. It can be used to inventory media and hard drives that later will be separated from the computer.
-Gary Silverstein
Tags: back-up, backup, copy, copying, data, file, hard drive, image, save, saving, USB
Posted in Tips | Comments Off on Saving and backing up images . . .
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